Click above for music to travel along with this post (I am on a Sting roll…surprise)
Friends and Family,
We just wrapped up our visit to Victoria Falls and despite three potential down sides (our timing, the crowds and a digestive challenge) we had a great time.
The Falls
We learned upon arrival that the falls are not running at 100% between August and December. This is because both the Zimbabwe and Zambia governments are drawing water from the Zambezi river that feeds the falls to generate electricity. While the electricity generation happens all year round, during these months the water levels are low in the river — preventing most of the overflow to the falls. Thankfully there was at least one section (the one pictured) that was at full force and this was something to behold. This area surrounding this section is covered in mist making for many happy plants and trees (and damp tourists). Had I done some homework before we visited I would have learned these are not the optimal months to visit, however, this may not have changed our plans. I have seen this advice before and have ignored it with good results (e.g., Paris in the winter). Sometimes the best time to visit is when they tell you not to in order to avoid crowds.
The River
The Zambezi river runs between Zimbabwe and Zambia and is literally teeming with wildlife. We went on a sunset cruise of the river and had a chance to see elephants (including babies) as well as hippos. One of my favorite observations happened on the cruise. We were watching a group of hippos (between 6 and 8 of them)….everyone was waiting for them to raise their heads so we could snap a picture, when we overheard this exchange:
Fun Loving Woman: “This is just like a Disney ride”
Grumpy Guy: “What do you mean by that?”
Fun Loving Woman: “You know, the anticipation of seeing something and just knowing it will be amazing.”
Grumpy Guy (despondent): “Yeah, I understand”.
I couldn’t help but wonder how thrilled Walt would be to hear that exchange knowing how much he loved wildlife and wild places.
The Monkeys
We stayed at the Victoria Falls hotel. This is a lovely hotel built in 1904 by the British (link below) that is an attraction in itself. One very cool thing about staying there are the monkeys and baboons that roam freely on the grounds. We were exploring the grounds one afternoon when we happened upon 5 monkeys, one of which was a baby. We grabbed the camera and starting to record them interacting with each other and trading the baby back and forth and then….they turned on us! They first chased Patrick and then they came after me. All of this is captured on video and is so freaking funny I laugh until I cry each time I watch it. Coming to you through the magic of Facebook shortly.
Tourism
Tourism is the #1 industry in Victoria Falls and they are squeezing as much value out visitors as possible. The area is extremely accessible and as a result this has become a popular area for large tour groups. There is one tour operator called Wild Horizons that has a monopoly on connecting visitors with tours. For example, we had 3 planned excursions and 2 airport runs — 4 out of 5 of these were covered by Wild Horizons. So we ended up in an environment with shared transportation / busses, tour groups and crowds….all things we try to avoid when exploring.
On balance we had a great time and are thrilled we had a chance to see the falls and the animals along the river. Until the next update from Kruger National Park in South Africa!
XO, Dawn
Post Script on the Digestive Challenge
On our final evening I came down with an unsavory digestive challenge. While I won’t go into detail (all you do is win win win no matter what) I will tell you this was Not Fun At All. I only mention it here to give a shout out our Florida Hospital Centra Care nurse Chelsea that wisely sent us packing with antibiotics for just such an occasion. Upon my return I am going to go visit her, give her a hug and a Harry and David basket. Those little pills were a trip saver.
Dawn's Tribe 