Lions and Elephants and Leopards….Oh My!

Click above for the soundtrack for the update today – Amazing Grace by Ladysmith Black Mombazo

Friends and Family, 

We are nearing the end of the View Animals on Safari chapter of the amazing race and it has been everything we could have hoped for.  Let me begin by saying I led everyone to believe we were headed to Kruger National Park when in fact we landed in a private game reserve that is near Kruger National Park.  This was pointed out to me on the way to the lodge.  Admittedly upon learning we weren’t booked in lodge in the Kruger National Park system I was apprehensive.  Any guidebook you read on South Africa advises you to explore Kruger if you only have time for one thing in the country.  Needless to say, after our first animal viewing drive and some light research I was able to relax and simply enjoyed every moment.

The Reserve

Thornybush is a private reserve established in 1955 with approximately 13 commercial lodges on site.  It is roughly 54 square miles (provided I translated over 18K hectares correctly) large and is home to over 400 species of plants and animals,  48 of which are mammals.  The laws of nature rule here as in the wild — our tracker and driver were very careful to ensure we did not interfere with “the circle of life” by advantaging or disadvantaging a predator over prey.

The lodge we are staying is in,  Chapungu Lodge, is not fenced and is situated inside the reserve.  Therefore it is common to see animals on the grounds…. Nyala and monkeys are the most frequently sighted so far.  The recommended length of stay here is 3 days and each day has the same cadence.

Typical Day

5:00 am – Rudolph (true name) wakes up the guests in each tent by knocking on the door

5:30 am – We meet the rest of the guests for a cup of coffee and biscotti in the dining area

6:00 am – We jump into their assigned safari vehicle to explore the savannah for the morning drive (length between 2 and 4 hours).  We are assigned to two amazing guys; a tracker named Oscar and a driver / guide names Kilmon.

10:00 am – Breakfast is served back at the lodge

2:30 pm – Lunch is served back at the lodge

4:00 pm – We jump back in the vehicles for the afternoon / evening drive.  The highlight of this drive is the “sundowner” — basically happy hour on the savannah complete with drinks, snacks and perfect spot to watch the sunset over the mountains

Roughly 9:30 pm – We head back to the tent to shower up, go to bed and prepare for another critter filled day.

Observations

Time stands still here.  We have been forced to truly decompress….something we all were desperately seeking.  There is limited internet access (only in the common areas, not in the tents — I have been working on this update in the dining room) and no television.  Therefore you must kick back, read, relax, enjoy a glass of wine poolside or to take a soak in the tub on your deck.  In short, it is exactly what we needed.

Our animal viewing has literally graduated in excellence with every drive.  The highlight to date (for me) was the morning drive today.  Kilmon and Oscar led us to this area where we were utterly surrounded by elephants of all ages.  Much like our amazing experience in Rwanda on day 2 of our gorilla experience…..the elephants were Everywhere.  In front, behind and on each side. The babies were playing, fighting, eating and resting while the alpha male of the group watched on and attempted to keep the peace.  I have video of two baby elephants sparring, something I have never witnessed live.  Having the chance to be in the middle of all of these natural behaviors was truly a gift.

We head to Cape Town and civilization tomorrow where our number one goal will be to maintain our decompression levels.  We are equal to the task.

Thanks for listening…..love and hugs to all!

Dawn

Post Script:  The monkeys are aggressive!  We just heard that the little bastards tried to invade the kitchen and steal our lunch….another day on the savannah I suppose.  

Link to Chapungu Lodge Site

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